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| NEW ORLEANS STEPS UP FOR A PERFECT (PARTY) STORM by Carol Joynt If a perfect storm is when two powerful weather systems collide, creating an even bigger storm, then New Orleans is about to have its own perfect storm. But this time it won't be a hurricane and a flood. This time it will be a party storm, one that is festive, fun and — particularly important to this city — money making. In a rare confluence, the Super Bowl and Mardi Gras are happening practically on top of each other and are expected to bring more than 1 million people and maybe as much as $1 billion to the "Big Easy." The two iconic events should put the exclamation mark to the end of the sentence: "New Orleans is back!" |
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Carnival season got rolling last Friday and peaks with Fat Tuesday on February 12. The Super Bowl comes to town this week, with the championship game on Sunday at the Superdome. Some 100 million viewers worldwide are expected to watch the game. Appropriately, Mayor Mitch Landrieu called it a "global" moment. He'll be beaming and eager to have his face replace the memory of Katrina-era mayor Ray Nagin who, in an interesting bit of timing, was indicted twelve days ago on 21 counts of corruption. Like Louisiana itself, there's nothing boring about politics in New Orleans.
But on the other hand, he came down hard on the Saints in the "bounty" scandal, sidelining coach Sean Payton in a year-long suspension, among other staff suspensions and punishments he handed out. The Saints, who won the Super Bowl in 2009, and hoped to play in another Super Bowl this year on their home field, instead ended the 2012 season with a 7-9 record and did not make it into the play-offs. Who better to blame than Goodell? The fans who blame him do so fiercely. But that's only the back story. The headline is that New Orleans is more than ready for these next couple of weeks. On a recent week-long visit my son, Spencer, and I made during the Christmas holidays, staying with friends in the French Quarter, we woke each morning to the sounds of jack hammers, a result of the $90 million "Paths to Progress" infrastructure rehabilitation project. There were detour signs clogging traffic everywhere for an overhaul of the streetcar lines. Streets and sidewalks were torn up for repaving. Residents and cab drivers grumbled, but visitors will be rewarded. And isn't that the point? A gleaming French Quarter. Imagine that? |
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| The on-going work did not deter us from enjoying the fruits of New Orleans — good food, good music, good drinking, charming architecture, beautiful weather, walks along the Mississippi and the general, uplifting spirit of "laissez les bon temps rouler." What was especially memorable was visiting three of the "grand dames" of the city's restaurant scene to enjoy their holiday atmosphere — Commander's Palace, Antoine's and Galatoire's. The rooms are so beautiful at each, with or without holiday decorations. Better still, they had $20.13 prix fix specials with excellent choices and 25-cent martinis. Yes, you read that right. Twenty-five-cent martinis. Let the good times roll, indeed. I can picture the scenes those elegant restuarants will be during Super Bowl-Mardi Gras, but worth the schmear to snag a table. |
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| We returned to some other favorites, including K-Paul's, Nola and Bayona, and tried a popular new hot spot, Cochon, which specializes in, as you might guess, pork. I had sensational roast suckling pig. Cafe Amelie's garden remains one of the most romantic, pleasant and delicious places to eat in the Quarter. If you hanker for grilled oysters, by all means head to Drago's. In the morning, for coffee and beignets, I favor Café Beignet over the better-known Café du Monde. For music, places I've been to and enjoyed include The Spotted Cat, Snug Harbor, One Eyed Jacks, Cafe Negril, Vaso. On this last visit we also experienced the brilliant funk and R&B of pianist Jon Cleary at d.b.a. bar on Frenchman Street. Walk the Marigny and you pretty much can't go wrong. I asked our friends, both professional musicians, to make some recommendations. "Irvin Mayfield's Jazz Showcase at the Royal Sonesta on Bourbon ST is a classy jazz room. The Little Gem Saloon on Poydras and Baronne is a newly opened, beautifully restored historic jazz venue with nice eats as well. The Maple Leaf is the Uptown music venue where Tuesday nights the Rebirth Brass Band tears the place up." These are good tips. |
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| An amusing anecdote about our meal at Bayona. As we were leaving the restaurant the maitre' d mentioned that the night before a group was in that included actors Chris Noth and Shirley MacLaine. He showed us Noth's message in the guest book: "I love your food. I want to get fat here ..." Smart man. Remember this about Mardi Gras: on Fat Tuesday at midnight the party ends. Period. The bars close and Lent begins. That won't be an issue during Super Bowl weekend, however. |
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| And an endnote to all football fans and New Yorkers. Next year the Super Bowl is back where some people (including yours truly) believe it should be -- out in the elements, under an open sky, rather than in a temperature-controlled, domed stadium. The venue will be MetLife Stadium, aka "The New Meadowlands." It's being touted as a New York-New Jersey "cold weather" Super Bowl, and that's fantastic, including all the delights that Manhattan has to offer an invasion of fans and high rollers: great food and shopping, ice-skating, cozy bars, gridlock! Actually, what I'm hoping for is a blizzard Bowl. |
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| Follow Carol on twitter @caroljoynt |
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